The trusty, yet neglected motorcycle chain

On my most recent ride around the north end of Lake Washington, I’ve noticed a little lag in power. I’ve also noticed that the chain on my 2002 Honda VFR800 seems to carry a little extra slack. The Honda owner’s manual suggests that there be about 1.3″ of slack in the chain, not to exceed 1.75″ of slack. Well, my unscientific experiment (pushing the chain up next to an adjacent ruler) indicates that I’m right up against that maximum 1.75″ limit.

Additionally, I note that, according to my chain gauge, that the rear wheel cannot be adjusted rearward any more, and I believe it’s time for a chain replacement. Not a horribly expensive proposition (good O-ring chains are about a hundred bucks) but since the drivechain is a very integral component of the forward movement of my motorcycle and thus my motorcyling experience and therefore my fun and well being, it’s a task I’d not care to accomplish myself, in my carport, with my own meager assortment of tools, for the very first time, on a $5,000 motorcycle that I want to keep and enjoy for years to come. Translation: I’m gonna take it to the shop to have done.

Not my Interceptor, but darn near close

However, I wanted to read up on the science of motorcycle drive chains. An excellent website, Canyon Chasers has such a reliable primer.

First of all, why is motorcycle chain maintenance important?

A chain that is ignored will eventually fail, typically by breaking. A broken chain will many times ball-up around the countershaft and front sprocket. When this happens, your chain will rip and tear its way through your soft aluminum motor and will always result in engine damage.

Proper chain slack is crucial. Too tight of a chain can do $expensive$ damage to the countershaft. We also know that keeping a well lubricated chain is important to proper operation. However, there’s a flip side to good lubrication, and that is dirt will build up on the chain. The solution? Regular chain cleaning.

If you do this regularly, your chain will keep a high level of lubrication but will also draw a lot of dirt and you’ll end up with a really dirty-looking chain. Dirt, as I’m sure you can imagine, is very bad for a chain. A good idea is, every 3000 miles or whenever you change your oil, to clean your chain. The easiest way to clean your chain is with a rag, a toothbrush, and kerosene.

Without using a fancy factory placard on the motorcycle swingarm to determine if your chain is nearing its servicable life, Canyon Chasers offers this elementary check:

But how do you know when your chain needs to be replaced? If you go to your rear sprocket and pull straight back on the chain, you’ll be heading in the right direction. If your chain pulls away from the sprockets by much, it is probably stretched out. If the chain does not pull away and stays right on the sprocket, then the chain is not stretched out yet. Also, if your sprockets no longer look like points but a bunch of little hooks you need to replace it all.